Oaxaca de Juárez
This is already a better city than CDMX. And I say that with all the subjectivity and over-generalizations in the world. Don't get me wrong though, I love CDMX. I think it's one of the better cities in the world. But it's not quite up there with the ones I love (Bangkok, London, Antwerp, heck, even NYC can get a mention here, despite having spent as little as two and a half days there.) Perhaps Oaxaca's capital city belongs in that list too?
Oaxaca de Juárez is so much more laid back than CDMX. I can feel it, Charlotte feels it. There's more space to think and more air to breathe. Which means we're able to catch the tiniest glimpse of clarity. A better idea on what we actually need right now. Not what we're supposed to do.
So we changed our plans, completely. No more San Cristóbal de las Casas or Palenque. No terrifying 12-hour, hairpin turn-infested, overnight bus to get there. Perhaps no more Bacalar, even. Mazunte, San Agustinillo, Zipolite, and everything there's to explore around these places. Beaches, lagunas, tortugarios, slower life, easier life. Yes, this feels good.
It's day four in Oaxaca and we're going on one of those 'Oaxaca Mágica' tours. They take you to see this huge 2000-year-old tree called 'El Tule,' which is the widest tree in the entire world. A 58 meter circumference of the trunk is what it takes to get that title. I gotta say: impressive tree.

Oaxaca is known for its Mezcal, so after a solid demonstration on how they spin and color yarn to make carpets, Zapotec-style, they drive you across the street to taste away your sorrows if you have any. If not, you can also just enjoy the explanations on the process and enjoy your semi-expected purchase of a bottle at the end of it. We got a tiny one, because we have a flight to catch soon, of their 8-year old Mezcal. It's strong, but nice if you're into this stuff.





Fully buzzed up now, the next stops are the historic site of Mitla (1000 year old!) where the ruins are in a pretty good condition still, and then to Hierve el Agua. There are only two places in the world that has petrified waterfalls, and this is one of them. That's undeniably quite special, of course, though the sight itself I would describe as 'nice' but a one-and-done is good enough here. But that's just my opinion.






Oaxaca's capital city is much nicer than I remembered it being. I've also given it much more of a fair chance this time around. We've seen, tasted, and experienced so much more of it than I dared to previously. My earlier travels have turned me into the person I am today, and they opened me up for new experiences in ways I probably don't even fully understand. But I was young and naive back then, too. At least a lot more than I am today.
So I can confidently say I was previously wrong about this city and its surroundings. It's definitely worth a visit. Just make sure you come here with respect for its ancient cultures and traditions, the people currently still living their everyday lives here, and the fact that this is not a mere tourist attraction but a real, living, authentically Mexican, city. Still not a big fan of the mole though.
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